Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Sailing Into Sydney

On November 1st (Melbourne Cup Day) I took a quick flight in the afternoon from Melbourne up to Sydney and checked into a hostel in the Central Business District right downtown.  It was my first time experiencing an 18-bed hostel room and hopefully my last.  At 8:00pm, the lights were off and people were sleeping, but by 12:00am when I wanted to go to sleep the lights were on and people were milling about.  The room itself wasn't too noisy, but the street traffic noise coming through the open window certainly was.

The following day, I had to check out because there were no empty beds for that night and as I was leaving my bags in storage I ran into one of the Canadian guys I had met in Thailand.  He was now traveling by himself on a working holiday visa in Australia.  Cam and I had a late Irish breakfast at a nearby pub and then I headed off toward the Indian consulate to inquire about the visa application.  When I got there, it turns out I had to go to a different office closer back toward my original hostel.  When I finally arrived, the woman at the counter seemed quite annoyed at my apparently inane line of questioning and basically just handed me a brochure and told me to bugger off.  I did learn, however, that it would take 10 working days to get my visa since I am not Australian, which means I wouldn't be able to go to New Zealand and would have to move back my flight to Delhi.

After leaving the consulate, I made my way a few blocks away to the Apple Store where I had an appointment to get my computer checked out at the Genius Bar.  This was yet another frustrating experience as I learned that my computer was essentially totaled and it would make more sense to just buy a new one rather than try to fix the old one.  I put off the purchase for the time being hoping I could get a student discount through some couchsurfing friends back in Melbourne.

Once I got back from the Apple Store, I picked up my bags and checked into my new hostel--a rundown frat house of a place in the seedy backpackers neighborhood of Kings Cross.  I went into the internet cafe next door to fill out my visa application and then went back to the consulate the following morning.  The first time I went up to the counter I was informed that I needed a copy of my Australian visa and two signed statements: one stating that as a television producer and "former" journalist I would not be conducting any journalism while in India and the other that the reason I needed a dual entry visa was that I planned to go to Nepal, but had not yet booked my flights because I didn't know the duration of my stay.   I realized instantly that it had been a huge mistake to put "journalist" in the "former occupation" field.  Apparently if you are a journalist and you want to visit India even on vacation you have to get a journalist visa.  I was sure that my application was doomed.  Also, since my travel agent applied for my Australian visa I wasn't even sure that I had a copy of the theoretically electronic document.  Luckily once I was able to get on a computer I found the e-mail he had sent with the copied and pasted visa confirmation.

I returned to the visa office for the second time and this time the original clerk was busy so I was sent to the annoyed-by-questions lady from the day before.  I knew this did not bode well.  I almost felt like she recognized me and was instantly judging me and my stupidity.  It turns out I was right to be wary as she quickly informed me that I did not have the requisite visa checklist nor did I apparently have an adequate amount of cash for the application.  I asked if I could pay by credit card and she told me not unless it was an Australian-issued card.  It's a Visa card so I don't really know why it would make any difference where it was issued and my exasperated response was something along the lines of: "Of course, it wasn't issued in Australia.  I don't live in Australia so why would my card be issued here."  However, I didn't even bother to try to ask her to run it and instead informed her that I had to leave to get the additional $30 I needed out of the ATM.  Once I returned with the checklist and cash, she told me how much it was going to be and, having been quoted a lower price this time around, it turns out I had had enough money with me all along.  I just gritted my teeth and gave her the money realizing it wasn't worth it trying to ruffle any feathers.

After finally getting out of the consulate following my third trip of the day there, I made my way down to Central Quay and from there walked most of the way across the Sydney Harbor Bridge where I got an amazing view of the Opera House and the waterfront.  I then crossed back over to The Rocks, an old shipping neighborhood, and then walked around the Opera House into the Royal Botanic Gardens.  It was a bright, clear afternoon and the blue sky really highlighted the white sails of the Opera House.  Walking back to my hostel through the serene gardens was a nice way to end a frustrating day.

On Friday, I putzed around for much of the morning and took care of some errands before taking the train to the suburb of Newtown just west of the city where I was couchsurfing with a guy named Andrew for the night.  We went down the street to the local pub for a drink and then met up with some of Andrew's friends in the neighborhood of Surrey Hills.  We went to a few different bars and as everyone was leaving to head to yet another place, Andrew's friends started trying to dare him to take a running slide into the fountain on the sidewalk right out front.  Some money started to be put on the table so I stepped up and said I was going to do it since I was ready to go home anyways.  Still wearing jeans and a tee shirt, I took a running start and began crawling (it really wasn't possible to slide) through the arches of the fountain.  As was visible from the video one of Andrew's friends took of my efforts, I made it through the first two arches without getting wet, but then just lost it after that and got soaked by the water.  Lots of high fives and $65 AUD later, I was trying to slip into a cab without my drenched state being detected.  The driver seemed a bit suspicious, but didn't seem to realize I was wet until I tried to hand it some watery bills as he dropped me off.  Shivering and soaked, I was never happier to get out of my clothes once I got inside.  In the end, it was worth it.  Never underestimate the depths to which a poor backpacker will stoop!

Part of the reason why I wanted to get back to house and go to bed was that I had to be up on Saturday morning to go boating on the harbor with another guy that I had contacted about couchsurfing.  Dan lived a ferry ride away from Central Quay in Cremorne Point so by the time I got there just after noon they were almost already out the door.  A number of Dan's friends as well as other couchsurfers were joining us on his catamaran.  We motored to the other side of the harbor, where we dropped the anchor and hooked up to several other boats so we could go swimming and have a barbecue.  We didn't stay in the water long because aside from being freezing cold, it was filled with jelly fish that brushed against us, but fortunately didn't sting.  Once the sun set, we brought one of the boats to Darling Harbor where we continued to hang out until finally taking a cab home in the wee hours of the morning.  I was originally supposed to stay in a hostel that night, but since it was too late to check in and all my bag's were at Dan's place I just crashed there on the couch.

On Sunday, Dan had to work, but his roommate Lachlan was participating in an amateur sailing race with his dad and cousin so I decided to join them along with Dan and Lachlan's other couchsurfer for the weekend, Lisa, who lives in Melbourne.  It seems that Lisa's and my main job was to move from one side of the boat to the other while we were tacking (a.k.a. changing what side the sail is on.) There were several times that the side of the boat dipped so close to the surface of the water that it felt like we were going to go overboard.  Despite my penchant for seasickness, I was doing great until I went below the deck to take out my camera.  I was trying to find Lisa's in her bag as well and without a clear view of the horizon I started to feel a bit woozy.  After coming back on deck and getting some fresh air, I fortunately started to feel a bit better.  In the end, our boat came in fourth overall no thanks to any role that I played in the effort.

For the next few days I stayed with Dan and Lachlan hanging out around Cremorne Point and taking an afternoon trip by bus to Manley Beach.  One night when I was supposed to actually go stay at a hostel in the city, a big storm rolled through after which I went on a crazy run with Lachlan up and down steep hills and stairs on what he claimed was a seven-kilometer course.  I dispute his arithmetic because it felt much longer notwithstanding the fact that I walked up many of the hills.  Since it was quite late once we finished and had started to rain again, I stayed there one last night.

Once I got back to Sydney the next day, I spent more time exploring the Royal Botanic Gardens and wandering around the Gallery of New South Wales on the edge of the park.  The museum houses a lot of 19th and 20th century Australian and European art as well as ancient and modern Asian art.  The best part about it was that it was free and open late on Wednesday nights!  I didn't stay until it closed, but the extra hours gave me more time to explore.  The latest (and best in Sydney thus far) hostel I was staying at was also only a short five-minute walk away.

On Thursday, I spent the day trying to sort out my plans for the next week while I continued to wait for my India visa, which I had to pick up in Sydney.  I considered getting in on a ride share and going up to Bryon Bay, but it's quite a drive and I would still have had to find a way back down after a few days.  I was also looking to save a bit of money since housing and food is so expensive in Australia.  In the end, I was able to arrange a WWOOFing situation on a vineyard five hours west of Sydney in the town of Orange.  On Friday morning, I set out by train to become a Willing Worker On [an] Organic Farm.

More photos will be uploaded soon!  For now I'm jet lagged and exhausted in India.

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